Nose mount details

Simple mounting of the Kingcycle nose fairing clone from Mid Norfolk Mouldings.

the old light is temporary fixed to the nose with some Terostat IX sealant

Author bottle cage brackets

the existing braze-on’s used to screw an aluminium U-profile to the front boom as a non twistable mount to clamp the lower fairing boom to it with two hose clamps

the cockpit

Some things got tweaked since I made the images. The Cycle Analyst is under the stem now and not behind it anymore for instance… :D
The new B&M IQ Cyo 75 volt front light is already on its way and will be mounted into the nose (if I can find my hole cutter…).

…as it happens the packet with the IQ Cyo was already waiting for me at my neighbour. Since it’s so tiny I will order a second one and mount them to each side of the nose, I think. No need to find the hole cutter.

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A bunch of updates and a nose

The ICE Sprint got a bunch of repairs and updates the last couple of weeks to get back in good riding condition.
It started with a new Shimano XT derailleur a couple of weeks ago, then I ordered the MXUS 1307 hub motor, a short 155mm Durabi 400 crank set, 65 tooth chain ring, new chain, chain tubes and 9 speed freewheel, new torque arm, new 90mm drum brake hubs, new 40mm wide rims, 55mm wide Big Ben tires, 20″ front wheel covers
Actually, except pedals and bottom bracket, the whole drive train is new.

While on a spending spree already I ordered the Hornit, the Cycle Analyst V3, two 37V/11.2Ah LiMn battery’s Schwibsi build from Sony Konion US18650 V3 cells on a Sunday afternoon (!) for me, Grin Techs Cycle Satiator 608 charger and finally the rather affordable recumbent nose cone fairing from Ebay that interested me for months (especially while getting soaking wet when riding in heavy rain…).

ICE Sprint FS 24 with nose cone
The Sprint more or less complete, except new mounts for the front light and Cycle Analyst. The bag on the front boom contains the battery.

Top speed at 84V (both freshly charged 37V battery’s in series) is, like Grin Techs Ebike Simulator predicted, just under 70 km/h by about 30 km range without fairing. With a lighter hand on the throttle I managed just under 15 Wh/km in total on my 40km commute the other day. I hope that figure might change with the nose fairing.

My old 37V LiMn battery is ripped into pieces right now to be rearranged into two 18.5V/11Ah battery packs. Together with the two new 37V/11Ah battery packs I connect them to a 55V/22Ah battery for more sane 50 km/h top speed and 70 km range.

At ‘only’ 40 km/h that range would increase to more than 100 km and when restricting top speed to around 25 km/h, range would increase further to around 200 km. 25 km/h is a nice speed for touring. Even better when able to speed up to 50 km/h as needed with a flick of a switch.

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Got a MXUS direct drive hub motor

Right before my Bafang BPM2 bite the dust, I ordered a MXUS 1307 direct drive hub motor from Austrian ebike shop elfKW for a change. The MXUS 1307 is a 9Continent 2807 clone, I think.
Since the MXUS came laced in a 20″ rim and I had no spokes ready at hand to relace it in a new nice and sturdy Bellacoola 559 x 35 mm downhill rim, it went straight into the Sprint for a test. It didn’t took long to realise, the Sprint 26 with all around 20″ wheels handles way better around corners than my former 24″ front/26″ rear wheel setup. Shure, the 24″ front wheels are more comfortable and roll noticeably better, but corner handling still is a bit compromised. (more on that later)


Back to the hub motor. It is rated at 330 rpm at 37 volt. Thats about 30km/h in a 20″ wheel. Slightly to slow for my needs.
Paired with a 74 volt battery and 30A controller on the other hand, this 5.5kg hub produces quite impressive acceleration and 56km/h top speed in my Sprint. Fun!
Even more fun on gravel or wet tarmac when drifting around corners. Unfortunately, with the current 55 tooth chain ring, I’m running out of gears above 40km/h. After consulting Mike Sherman’s Online Gear Calculator and Grin Tech’s Ebike Simulator I ordered a 65 tooth chain ring.

Since my 20″ front wheel set with 70mm Sturmey Archer drum brakes is pretty much shot after serving for more than three years and running just shy of 20,000km in the Sprint, I have to get new 20″ front wheels. Remembering how much I liked the even more nimble handling of the Sprint with 24″ rear wheel I decided building a 20″ front/24″ rear wheel setup with extra wide rims.

I thought about disc brakes for a while but in the end choose nearly maintanance free 90mm Sturmey Archer drums again to be laced in shiny brushed 406 x 40 mm rims from Classic Cycle and a similar 507 x 40 mm rim for the MXUS. The brushed rims look impressive all by themself already and the drum brake hubs will fit very nicely to them, I think. The spokes should arrive in the next two days and on the weekend I’m wheelbuilding. (still haven’t finished the truing stand, though)

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Grin Tech Cycle Satiator 608 Universal Ebike Charger

Justin from Grin Tech just introduced their newest creation at Endless Sphere:
The Cycle Satiator 608: a 360W, rugged, waterproof (IP65), programmable (20 battery profiles), certified (!), universal ebike battery charger with graphic display, 90-240V AC input, 24V-60V DC output at up to 8A, supporting various battery chemistries (LiMn, LiFe, LiPo, NiCa, NiMh, SLA).

Here is the introductory thread at the Endless Sphere forum and direct download links to the PDF Satiator 608 brochure and latest draft of the Satiator 608 manual.
Cycle satiator 608

It looks like this is probably the first ebike battery charger that doesn’t suck and, once set up, easy and save to operate. While even at its introductory price of $250 (later $295) not exactly a bargain at first sight, compared to all these cheap generic China ebike battery chargers it might save some money in the long run.
Since I’m at my 5th ‘cheap’ generic China charger within 3 years, these ‘cheap’ chargers (€79-99) tend to get rather expensive after a while…

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Need new motor

Since the one-way clutch in my Bafang BPM2 is frequently locking up (again), it’s time for a new motor. The Bafang served me well for >6,000km since its last repair (>10,000km in total) but regularly running a bit shy of 1kW at 35mph on my daily commute is obviously just a bit too much for that little oil cooled hub to take.

I’m still a bit undecided what kind of motor to choose next. A geared hub motor again (Bafang BPM, Mac/Puma), a direct drive hub (9Continent, Crystalyte HT/HS) or maybe Lightning Rods mid drive kit directly driving a chain ring at the rear wheel (via disc brake adapter).
A ‘normal’ mid drive kit (like the 750W Bafang BBS 02) isn’t on my list. I think the strain on chain drive and derailleur is a bit too much and I like to keep human power train and electric power train separated. Changing 4m of chain and 9-speed cassette on a regular basis isn’t something to look forward to either.

If getting a second Bafang BPM, or a slightly bigger Mac, I most likely have to swap and repair my hub motors every 5-6 month (4-5,000km). A new one-way clutch cost just 50 bucks, but that procedure will get annoying very soon.

An air-cooled 9Continent direct drive hub at 72V and 35-40A might be just the ticket. The ebike simulator predicts torque and top speed similar to my current setup. It’s the cheapest hub motor option and at 5.5kg weights only 2kg more than the Bafang BPM.

The bigger Crystalyte HT3525 hub probably has more headroom for thermal abuse, but at 7.5kg weights 2kg more than the 9C and twice as much as the BPM. The just as heavy but faster Crystalyte HS3540 is an other option, but I seriously doubt that enabling me to go above 45mph with my Sprint is a very sensible idea…

Since after nearly 21,000km I have to swap all chain drive components of the Sprint as well (new chain and chain rings, 9-speed freewheel, new derailleur, short 155mm cranks) I think I’ll get a cheap 9Continent 2807 hub for now, drill some holes in the side plates for air cooling and see how it goes.

In the mean time I will follow the developement of Lightning Rods mid drive kit. Maybe a modified version will be a more affordable, albeit less powerful, alternative to Matt Shumakers V4 drive system.
On the other hand, just using a cheap 100 bucks ‘Big Block’ rickshaw motor with a simple one stage chain drive might be an interesting option too (albeit a bit crude looking)…

…four days after this posting and one day after inquiring about a MXUS direct drive hub (9Continent clone) from in Austria, the gears in my BPM2 gave up on my way home. I haven’t opened the BPM2 yet but judging by the rumbling noise probably some teeth broke off the planetary gears. For now the smaller hod rodded SWXH is back on duty till the 9C arrives.

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Velomo HiTrike

I already got quite exited last year when I saw the first images of the BuS-Velomo HiTrike prototype with its leaf spring front axle. (see ->Trike Haute Vitesse).

Now, after the Spezi in Germersheim, more images emerged in a thread in the German Velomobilforum and in the profile of co-constructor ‘Jack-Lee’, showing several frame versions of the HiTrike. While all images show the trikes with tiller steering, more common under seat steering will be available as well.

The HiTrike Pi
The HiTrike Pi (13kg) looks a lot like a contender to the ICE Vtx (14.9kg) but with full suspension and without a weight penalty. Starting at €3990 the Pi compares to the ICE Vtx as well.
At least if you don’t add the €1500 Pinion 1.18 gear box to it…

HiTrike Pi

Leaf spring front suspension
Velomo HiTrike Pi front suspension

Rear swing arm
Velomo HiTrike Pi rear

This HiTrike Pi frame version with suspended one-sided rear swing arm as well as the green rigid frame version reminds me of the Windcheetah.
Velomo HiTrike Pi rear one arm

Unsuspended HiTrike Pi with Pinion 1.18 gear box
Velomo HiTrike Pi rigid frame with Pinion 1.18

The HiTrike GT
Well, lets say that colour wouldn’t be my first choice. It also doesn’t look as gracefull as the Pi. Apart from that the HiTrike GT is likely comparable to the ICE Sprint FS, but at 12kg (26.5lbs) about 1/3 lighter!

HiTrike GT side

HiTrike GT

I would love to test ride both.

All Images: Bus-Velomo

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Had a crash

Crashed with an other bicycle last week on the way home from work.
Apart from quite some bruises and road rash it went mostly well for us I guess, but Jan (my ‘opponent’) split his lip. I tried to call him two days later to hear how he’s doing but couldn’t reach him. Since he is about my age (not quite 30 anymore) the following day’s he probably felt like a truck ran over him, like I did…

After some heated words at first, we both realised the blame for the crash was relatively equally shared between us. He seemed like quite the nice guy and I hope his daughter didn’t frighten too much when she saw her bloody father.

Anyway, my brand new 24″ front wheel set looked brand new for only about 230km.
I had to change some bend and broken spokes in the left wheel and nearly got the rim straightened again. Shame about the ripped jacket, gloves and trowsers, though. Since I flipped the trike in the crash it got its fair share of road rash as well…

Thats the second time I had a crash with the Sprint. Both times on a bicycle path. Last time it was a car whose driver didn’t care to look and crossed the bike path right in front of me. Counting in the numerous times I just got away, dodging cars, fellow cyclists and pedestrians, the figure of at least 2 times higher probability to have an accident on a bike path compared to taking the street sounds pretty reasonable to me.

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