New Torque arm
The new torque arm that braces to the disk caliper mount. Its water-cut from 5/16″ (9.5mm) A36 steel plate and weights 144g. They cost $25 + shipping and can be ordered in this Endless-Sphere sales thread.
Since water-cutting thick and hard material doesn’t result in perfectly angled cutting edges, the slot is slightly under 10mm (I’ve measured it at 9.87mm) and doesn’t fit right away on the hub motor axle. So, it needs a little bit of work with a file. The holes for the brake mount are a bit smaller than 6mm and not perfectly circular, you need to drill them with a 6.2mm drill bit. Its also no stainless steel, hence a coat of paint is needed.
The angle of the axle slot doesn’t fit the ICE Trike rear end, so I had to flip the torque arm and drilled a third hole for a M5 screw. Not sure if I will need the excess material. I might cut it off later. Since I ordered parts for a trailer yesterday, it might come in handy to mount the trailer hitch.
The AVID BB7 rear brake had to go and a double piston TRP Spyke took its place.
The Spyke is soo much easier to adjust properly, compared to the BB7.
MXUS 3006 RC (Grin Tech edition) with HubSink
Since the new 9Continent CST bite the dust after a mere 3,200km (entirely my fault), I decided to play save this time by adding 10ml of Statorade and HubSinks to the new MXUS 3006 RC from Grin Tech and connected the temperature sensor of the hub motor to the Cycle Analyst v3. Now, the Cycle Analyst reduces power if the motor temperature rises above a set value to prevent heat damage.
Boy, I had no idea that the motor stator can get so hot, so fast, while its still relatively ‘cool’ on the outside! Putting the hand on your motor to feel its temperature, tells you absolutely nothing about the temperature inside!
An other thing:
The dead 9Continent as well as the new MXUS 3006 RC have cassette adapters. Apart from the possibility to customize the cassette exactly to your needs, hub motors with cassette adapter are simply in an other league to mount to your cycle. When I think of all the headache and custom parts I had to build to properly fit the Bafang BPM or the old MXUS with 8-speed or 9-speed screw-on freewheels to my cycles… *sigh*
New tie rods
After using-up two sets of cheap rod ends in the Blue ICE, I finally made some new tie rods from polished 10mm stainless steel tubes to use IGUS igubal® KARM-08 MH rod ends.
The old tie rods made from M8 stainless steel threaded rod with metal rod ends weighted 344g, so apart from the vastly better look, there was a 158g weight saving.
I didn’t have a M8 left hand thread cutter at hand, so I’ve simply cut right hand threads into the tie rods. It’s slightly more cumbersome to set proper toe-in (you have to disconnect one rod end from the king pin for adjustment) compared to the original ICE Trikes tie rods with left hand and right hand thread, but you actually have to do adjust them only once when you change rod ends.
Here is the wheel alignment instruction video from ICE Trikes, btw.
Found a never used Rohloff Lubmatic. The Rohloff Lubmatic is a chain lubrication pump and was discontinued a couple of years ago.
Rohloff still sells their ‘Oil of Rohloff’ chain lube, though.
The pump is a bit cumbersome to reach behind the seat, but it needs to be mounted vertical to work and don’t leak. Not actually a big deal, since I only have to reach back there once or twice a month. I’d call it a rather luxury solution.
Since the chain in the Blue ICE is pretty worn after more than 20,000km and needs to go soon, I used some cheap oil to get it going just a little bit further (its oily and messy now, but the new chain is already at hand, I’m just too lazy to put it in…)
I’ll probably use Rivolta S.K.D.16 N lube again. Sparsely used, it keeps the chain relatively clean and served me very well so far.
Talking about lazy:
Its sooo much easier to lube the chain with the Lubmatic! Simply reaching back and pulling the piston up one or two times (4 meters of chain!) is all that’s needed every couple of weeks.